It would be easier to buy an unthreaded ferrite rod of similar diameter and length.

I used the core of a width coil of an Italian TV (same thread as that of a Hantarex monitor). They're slightly thinner so I put a few turns of tape around it until it was tight enough to be pushed/pulled instead of screwed which is more convenient anyway. Immagine3.jpg Immagine4.jpg Immagine5.jpg

Does pincushion adjustment work? Horizontal size limit (VR452)?

That's the AC filter. I don't think it's bad, maybe a shorted diode bridge could get it hot but in that case the power supply wouldn't work at all.

That's probably the PTC. It's normal that it gets very hot.

Sounds like a problem in the power supply. Check the B+ diodes on the output (D951, D952, D956), the caps (C951, C952, C953). If they're OK check the primary side.

zumbito wrote: ↑

September 6th, 2020, 7:30 am

I took it to the technician, and he repaired the monitor, but when I took it back it still had the same issue. I took the chasis and tube this time and he said it was the yoke.

If it was the yoke what did he repair the first time around?

I wish I could last longer than my monitors.

nem wrote: ↑

June 5th, 2020, 8:12 pm

I still say 48cm tube is common as muck.

Too bad candy cabs don't use that size (if we don't consider that monstrosity you posted yesterday).

19" (18" viewable) as it should be intended in Europe and Japan is indeed super rare but a lot of people call 19" what is in fact 20" (19" viewable).

Tube size is wrong. There's no arcade cab that uses a 21" / 51cm tube. How did you know it was a 21 inch tube, he said it was 22, is there a website with a database of tv and the tubes inside? Being the owner doesn't make you an expert. It's a 21" (20" viewable screen) because the model number is C...

As I said the only option is to hack the chassis.

May I Know ho ro wire a Degauss button? the SG is different frorm SU, Here I have two wires only wich are directly soldered on pcb under PTC,, autodegauss is not working and wiring the two Red wires to a switch button do not work. If it's the version without the 5-pin header you need to cut traces ...

Check D8 and D11.

This is called S-correction. I made a post about it here: http://www.ukvac.com/forum/image-stretched-more-on-left-side-than-right_topic376546_post1140888.html?KW=#1140888 I don't know this Toshiba monitor but the S-correction circuit will be similar. In any case it's not something you adjust in serv...

They look like Molex Mini-Fit jr to me.

Depends on what's damaged. If it's the rubber it can't be salvaged and that kind of hook is held by a ferrule crimped on the cable. It's much better to replace the whole thing with one likle this which is very easy to install:
If you need one PM me.

it's quite possible that the TV tube doesn't have the same deflection angle as the 2931 tube and the yoke which is shaped for a specific angle doesn't work on the other tube. Look for a number (100 or 110) embossed in the glass. The TV service manual would have helped but that model doesn't even sho...

It is unsure if it's shutting down because the anode voltage rises above normal level. You would need a HV probe to see that. I would expect the B+ to stay at 75V after HV shutdown. A less safe method would be to suck solder off pin 14 of the 7853 and see if it doesn't shut down. It wouldn't be a ba...

No sign of life from the flyback. Does your multimeter measure frequency (Hz)? If so check pin 13 of the 7853 for 15KHz pulse at startup.