I wish I could last longer than my monitors.

nem wrote: ↑

June 5th, 2020, 8:12 pm

I still say 48cm tube is common as muck.

Too bad candy cabs don't use that size (if we don't consider that monstrosity you posted yesterday).

19" (18" viewable) as it should be intended in Europe and Japan is indeed super rare but a lot of people call 19" what is in fact 20" (19" viewable).

Tube size is wrong. There's no arcade cab that uses a 21" / 51cm tube. How did you know it was a 21 inch tube, he said it was 22, is there a website with a database of tv and the tubes inside? Being the owner doesn't make you an expert. It's a 21" (20" viewable screen) because the model number is C...

As I said the only option is to hack the chassis.

May I Know ho ro wire a Degauss button? the SG is different frorm SU, Here I have two wires only wich are directly soldered on pcb under PTC,, autodegauss is not working and wiring the two Red wires to a switch button do not work. If it's the version without the 5-pin header you need to cut traces ...

Check D8 and D11.

This is called S-correction. I made a post about it here: http://www.ukvac.com/forum/image-stretched-more-on-left-side-than-right_topic376546_post1140888.html?KW=#1140888 I don't know this Toshiba monitor but the S-correction circuit will be similar. In any case it's not something you adjust in serv...

They look like Molex Mini-Fit jr to me.

Depends on what's damaged. If it's the rubber it can't be salvaged and that kind of hook is held by a ferrule crimped on the cable. It's much better to replace the whole thing with one likle this which is very easy to install:
If you need one PM me.

it's quite possible that the TV tube doesn't have the same deflection angle as the 2931 tube and the yoke which is shaped for a specific angle doesn't work on the other tube. Look for a number (100 or 110) embossed in the glass. The TV service manual would have helped but that model doesn't even sho...

It is unsure if it's shutting down because the anode voltage rises above normal level. You would need a HV probe to see that. I would expect the B+ to stay at 75V after HV shutdown. A less safe method would be to suck solder off pin 14 of the 7853 and see if it doesn't shut down. It wouldn't be a ba...

No sign of life from the flyback. Does your multimeter measure frequency (Hz)? If so check pin 13 of the 7853 for 15KHz pulse at startup.

Could the 7853 be bad? It wouldn't explain the 130v B+. Is it still like that after resoldering the flyback pin? Check the high voltage caps on the HOT collector/H yoke. Do you have any voltage on R315 on the neckboard (HOT in place and chassis connected to tube)? Check with multimeter leads alread...

Because you forgot to resolder pin 2 of the flyback.

Measure R571.

The monitor is not only unoriginal but also not the correct size. You need one with an A59 tube, this is an A63. You can take it out without discharging it.

Pics of my tests so you can compare:

I have 11.80V on one side of R571 and 10.90V on the other side (my R571 = 94 ohm).

I would test the flyback at this point but you need a special tester.

HOT is desoldered Does it test good? Meter in test diode, red on base, black on collector, expected reading around 500mV. Black on base, red on emitter, expected reading slightly higher than the former. OL with every other lead combination. And B+ now is...? 22.6VDC at R508 On both sides? This supp...

Doesn't sound like HV shutdown. Remove the HOT and test it and while it's off circuit repeat the bulb test after resoldering pin 2 of the flyback. Check that you have the secondary voltages from the PSU, especially 24V (or close, I don't remeber exactly) on R508 and 12V on pin 11 of the 7853.