Arcade Otaku - アーケード オタク

Yes. It seems suspicious that all three switches are dead but it looks like it. It's not entirely surprising to me. Those switches are notorious for being flaky or flat not working (likely due to dust/smoke build-up on the internal contacts). You could try shooting some non-lubricant "contact clean...

"SZ3" sticker hints for Japan version, though. Weird. First 3 characters of every region CPS2 label are based on the JP title. SZ3 U is USA. Just like Armored Warriors starts with PWG for Powered Gear. -ud All ROMS that are different from the JPN one have to be marked SZ3U particularly the first tw...

leonardoliveira wrote: ↑

January 29th, 2019, 2:45 pm

"SZ3" sticker hints for Japan version, though. Weird.

First 3 characters of every region CPS2 label are based on the JP title. SZ3U is USA. Just like Armored Warriors starts with PWG for Powered Gear.
-ud

muddymusic wrote: ↑

October 11th, 2018, 10:51 am

I've had a few quite rare pcb's over the years, but my Bubble Bobble 2 proto is gonna be tough to top.

I have Landmaker and Twin Qix protos like that!
-ud

There's no reason to split the B board from the A board for programming since the programming process doesn't affect the A board in any way... I'm pretty sure most people don't want to have to solder/unsolder 4+ wires on every Rev. 3/4 board (no programming header) they wish to desuicide. I agree o...

Alright. I have a working setup for Rev. 3/4, now. There are 2 notable differences between Rev. 3/4 boards and Rev. 5/6/7: 1. Not all Rev. 3/4 boards have a resistor added to CN2 pin A32. I own many Rev. 3/4 boards that never had that resistor added at the factory, so this is definitely a widespread...

I'll throw my hat in the ring and say I'm having Rev. 3 & 4 problems as well. Have the CPS2 power the arduino and all your problems will be gone in an instant. That's probably why I have 100% success in this stuff. :awe: Having the A board connected or not doesn't matter because the system is kept h...

Many great games already mentioned! Here are some more that I find enjoyable: Puchi Carat (Taito F3, uses Arkanoid spinners) Mr. Driller Series (PCB, 1,2, and G) Tower & Shaft (Seta Aleck64, another 1-Button game besides Star Trigon) Puzzle Star Sweep (PCB) Dharma Doujou (PCB, not so common Metro ti...

Super cool! Thanks for sharing and keeping this thing from getting lost!
-ud

Keep up the nice work guys! Playing Punisher, Cadillacs, and more on CPS2 will be amazing!
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Nice work, guys!
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I would think the cost wouldnt have been any different for them to be fair. It would have been just using a different dye in a different batch run .probably no different than the different colour case carts used with mvs Yup. The real investment was having molds created period. Injecting different ...

I just wonder why the went to all the troubles to make a different color case, wasn't something like a sticker more economic and practical? Stickers can be damaged/reproduced. Nobody is going to reproduce those different color cases. Capcom held that view on CPS2 w/ the Yellow cases. I believe ther...

Nice, Leo! Very exciting!
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leonardoliveira wrote:Which version of SF2 Alpha should I do?

I vote for the USA version, as it has the extra stuff flux was speaking of. That's the one people I know play competitively.
-ud

Jedpossum did some work converting HSF2 to CPS2 a while back. Not completed, but he did archive some work: https://github.com/jedpossum/HFCPS2 Also some of his notes on Q-Sound: https://github.com/jedpossum/NotesandBitsofCode/blob/master/Qsoundbootfunction.asm I just pointed him to this thread, and ...

Got the LCD installed in the B-board shell last night. I do have a question though.. How can I get the duct tape crud off this thing? I've tried goo gone and it didn't phase it. I have a rattle can of goof off, but that stuff eats plastic... Yeah, once that duct tape turns into hard plasticy stuff,...

Nice work, sir!
-ud

GriswaldoBS wrote:I think most of the problem is the adaptor board that bridges the 2 PCB's, it doesn't align properly enough and it pulls one of the boards up. You should consider changing this to a cable.

GriswaldoBS wrote:

This was my only concern w/ the kit.
-ud

A little off topic, but on the subject of "No Killing B-Boards!" in the title, I actually recently killed one, but for not for conversion. I purchased a "junk" GigaWing that would not boot (gray screen). Board was very clean, no sign of tampering, and battery was still ~3V. I re-seated all the progr...