LS-55-01 https://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/attributes_brands.html#LS-55 That's a great link. I picked up a couple of refurb Seimitsu's recently, both had LS-33 on identical PCBs, both were described as different models and both use identical bodies, microswitches and PCBs / gates. Only the mounting...

Hey Matt,

Sorry I've done zero arcading due to newborn baby in da house! Hope to get back on this, but yeah.. nuffin' happening at the moment!

zak wrote: ↑

October 3rd, 2019, 5:37 pm

Apparently changing Irem leaking ELNA caps also devalues a board

Meh, I'd totally forgotten that one ... adds 'check IREM boards for caramel caps' to the arcade to-do list

Yeah totally - We weren't saying it was a 'hobbyist' conversion, but very likely the pcb stock was re-used internally for newer game titles, hence the rom labels looking original too. As said, you'd need to remove the number label on other pcbs to know for sure, which nobody will volunteer, given it...

Ah I see, so much like Sega who converted many System 1 / 2 games in-house.
I couldn't see if the eprom labels were legit from the photo.

So likely a conversion with repro printed arts.

I'd be surprised if you where getting 120v but it could be ,I vaguely remember taking reading from all of my various different transformers years ago and none ran that high ,all of them came in closer to the 110 mark than anything which really is within tolerance ,hell even you measured everyones 2...

I still have a bunch of 220-240v -> 100-120v maplin style stepdowns. I think previous owners of my cabs used them, but I'm still fearful of blindly pumping 120v into 100v rated Japanese spec PSU's, sound amps and monitors. Some posts have stated 120v is well within 'tolerance' levels for a 29" Japan...

virtvic wrote: ↑

July 13th, 2019, 1:09 am

I wouldn’t touch your looms with a bargepole.

I wouldn't touch your bargepole with anything. It would be wrong

27p, two jamma looms and a jellybaby.

I had similar on one of FrancoB's old 31Khz monitors in a DIno King.
Syncs fiiiine to Naomi, but not to Pandora's Box.

Or just fit an LED tube instead, and ditch the ballast and starter stuff..

Totally reminds me of this one:



Some nice Dino King style 'kids medal' cabinets near the end ..

x2 - use Novus.

Usually it is only needed to have 2x 5V & 2x GND cables. These are the main 'power' lines that most game PCBs use so it can help to make sure they have more wires or thicker wire that the other connections on your JAMMA loom. It is mainly for older, larger and more power-hungry game PCBs.. and bootl...

my-loom-works.jpg Ok, The player 1 'master' cab has the small 'passthru' jamma fingerboard plugged into the harness connector... so it has all the normal jamma edge connections for the main cab, and the game PCB can be plugged into the jamma edge on this connector as normal. From the passthru finge...

I honestly keep thinking I left a mug of tea on my CP.. again..

Is that to make it look like an AWSD, or the full 'New Astro City'?

Probably not too hard I would say. No foil needed, just glossy:

V cool project Mr D!