Arcade Otaku - アーケード オタク

V ROMs contain the samples and the M1 Rom contains the audio code. I would assume it's something to do with the V ROMs? I would pull the V ROMs and dump them to make sure they're good. Here's some info here https://wiki.neogeodev.org/index.php?title=M1_ROM and here https://wiki.neogeodev.org/index.p...

I would say you'd need to add the LS08 and LS74. I assume they're needed for games with bigger V & P Roms and the donor that you've found doesn't require them because they have smaller V & P Roms than Metal Slug X.

Updated prices and trade list.

Well, according to the post there, you need to program the Altera chip with the correct configuration (not sure if this has been released yet) and desolder the current Altera IC and replace it with a new, programmed one. The other way of fixing it is transplanting all the chips (except the P1 ROM) f...

Have you cleaned the cart contacts with electrical contact cleaner? If not, could it be that the Altera IC is duff? See here https://wiki.neogeodev.org/index.php?ti ... tal_Slug_X

Added some bits.

Anyone need a Namco Cyberlead NTSC A PCB (the one at the back with the video out connectors)? I don't have a Cyberlead any longer so can't use/test it. If you need a photo let me know.

Price adjustments on CPS2 B-boards.

Got some more bits for sale. Payment by Paypal, gift or +4%. Also on UKVAC. Also up for trades as listed below (will make up for cash if over): Megadrive Games (JP Region) PC Engine Games (or a Core Grafx I console only or with pad) Super Famicom Games PGM Motherboard Sega STV Motherboard with multi...

Well, checking the battery is probably the first thing you should do. You can find the suicide checker program on Razoola's page - http://cps2shock.emu-france.info/suicide.html. In the last paragraph. Program that and you should be able to tell if it has suicided. When was the last time you changed ...

Just piggybacking along for a ride on this thread. I have a similar issue with a B board, except the sprite layer comes and goes if i move my hand around in this area like a magician.. I was suspecting the big chip near the battery since touching it makes the layer appear (and stay solid), but it r...

Excellent work. Glad to see you got the game working.

Nope, haven't tried those yet. I'll get my PCB out of the cage this weekend and have a proper look if I get the chance and report back.

That'll be good. I did try on the weekend with the jumpers shown in this thread but no joy. Hopefully I'll get some more time at the weekend to take apart the PCB and test properly. It'll be good get some documentation on this if it can be done.

I thought the jumper settings were to accommodate the Mask ROM sizes rather than the PAL used? Have a look here, it might help clear up whether the jumpers are correct http://wiki.pcbotaku.com/wiki/CPS2_Epro ... er_details

PAL F is what should be in a D&D: SOM and that jumper setting looks to be correct as well.

Wow. Never knew Model 3 PCBs could output 31khz. I'm going to give that a go on the weekend with my VF3 stack. Thanks for the info

The data sheet for a DIP 74LS245 will be fine.

That's the two you circled there. You'll need a logic probe or, preferably, an oscilloscope to test them properly and you'll need the data sheet to understand what the pins should be doing. I replaced one of those and the issue went away, can't remember which one it was that needed changing though b...

I had a similar solid colour screen before and it turned out to be the ls245s just below the battery so it might be worth checking they're functioning as expected. Hopefully it isn't one of the customs.